Last night, we went to dinner at an American friend’s house, prepared by two wonderful Italians. The menu: Bruschetta & Spaghetti al sugo di polpo… or spaghetti with octopus. OMG – it was incredible. If you are a little squeamish about cooking whole octopi, I suggest giving it a try with fresh, raw (and unbreaded, of course) calamari… the result is salty, garlicky, tomatoey(sp?) and tender… and a common Neapolitan dish. I watched my friend, Nando, prepare the pasta – and I was able to find a recipe for you guys to try that was just like his.

Spaghetti al sugo di Polpo

Ingredients:

Spaghetti noodles (Spaghetti #5 is the normal size, but if you can find the slightly thicker #8 ((spaghettoni)), then you’ll be cookin’ like a real Neapolitan, lol)

2 whole fresh, raw octopus – shoot for each to be the size of a softball.

1-2 cans of peeled plum tomatoes (Pomodoro Pelati… the amount is just dependent on how tomato-ey you want it to be 🙂

3-4 cloves of garlic

6 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (I know it seems like alot, but just do it.)

1/3 of a small bunch fresh parsley

1/3 cup of dry white wine

Salt and Pepper (to taste)

Instructions:

Set aside half the garlic. Roughly chop the other half & 15 sprigs of parsley. In a large, deep skillet, heat the oil to medium and add the chopped garlic, parsley and the octopus (whole – you’ll cut it later.) Cover skillet and let cook for two minutes. Add the peeled tomatoes & the wine to the skillet, and continue cooking covered, for about 40 minutes. At this point the octopus will have shrunk slightly & become soft, where it is easy to remove them from the pan and cut them into small pieces with a knife or kitchen shears. After the octopus is cut, return it to the pan & remove lid. Simmer the octopus another 10 minutes uncovered to reduce excess liquid from the skillet, and at this time, prepare spaghetti noodles until they are cooked al dente. Season the octopus to taste with salt & pepper, but be careful not to over salt since the octopus itself will have already made the sauce a bit salty. Now drain the pasta, toss it in the pan with the octopus, and plate it up!

… and scratch that from my “Italy bucket list.”

I previously said, “Southern Italians are some of the craziest drivers in the world.” Let me revise that statement. “Southern Italians are some of the BEST crazy drivers in the world.” But to explain my revision & the title of this post, you need to understand the reasons behind the first quote…

Initially, like every other American who has never experienced driving in southern Italy, I was shocked and totally unprepared for the Italian driving experience. Like in a lawless “Mad Max” society, the drivers here would ignore all street signs, drive at unpredictably fast (and sometimes slow) speeds, create their own lanes (I once saw a 2 lane highway become a five) and never hesitate to give you the “fingers pinched together upwards while shaking wrist” gesture which generally indicates anything from “what the hell am I supposed to do” and “hey, what the hell are you doing?”

However, after finding myself living here beyond the average vacation time frame, I have come to sense a system, albeit chaotic system, but a system nonetheless, under which Italian drivers operate. Once you accept that signs & lights are more like suggestions than rules, that you should never hang out in left lane – EVER, that people on mopeds will weave between all vehicles in a traffic jam at 50 mph, and that their style of driving is simply more aggressive than ours, then you’ll be golden! Of course, there are still plenty of times that I find myself “pumping the imaginary brake” on my side of the car; however, we seem to have found our niche and have even joined the ranks of the “pinched fingers” hand shakers at other not so savvy drivers.

That being said, let me address my revision. Anyone who has ever seen classic films set in Italy (Roman Holiday, La Dolce Vita, etc) are familiar with quintessential scenes featuring young, tan, dark haired Italians zipping around on Vespas between tight city streets. Before coming to Italy, I had this vision that I would find myself on the back of a moped, doing my best Audrey Hepburn impersonation, complete with scarf, and perhaps a pair of big sunglasses, hair blowing in the wind (I know, I know… a girl can dream, can’t she?) It just had to happen… my time here just wouldn’t be complete without it. Please also make note of the fact that I have never been on any sort of motorcycle in my life, so an experience such as this would fulfill two things I’ve always wanted to do. Well, all fantasy aside, the moped & scooter drivers around here are by far the most brazen & ballsy drivers I have ever encountered. But in the same breath, I gotta admit, these guys have skills. Its like second nature for them… its in their blood. Enter my new friend, Luciano. Luciano & his family owns a bar right next door and every night he can be seen zipping in to the parking lot on his 250cc scooter at speeds that make every muscle in my body tense up and enter a state of panic until I remind myself that this guy is a pro. So last night, remembering my so called “Italy bucket list,” I asked Luciano if he would take me for a quick ride on the back of his scooter. I figured if I was to trust anyone to know what they were doing, it was him. I climbed on the back, held on tight, and off we went down a straightaway, piano (slow) at first, then forte (fast). At first it was a little scary, but perched on the back of that super-moped, in the hands of a wildly capable Italian, it took merely seconds for my fear to morph into exhilaration. I know it might not seem much compared to hopping on a souped-up motorcycle and riding around back home, but something about being here, doing this in this place, made it different. Zipping down the narrow streets, the salty oceanside wind whipping my hair back, the feel of the cool damp air blowing all around me… it was heaven – my vision had come to fruition. And though I was missing my scarf & sunglasses, you bet I would never change that experience for the world.

Now I’m in the market for my own.

In case you didn’t know, Candida is the technical term for the parasitic fungus that causes yeast infections… but over here, it appears to also be a trendy fashion brand.

But all that aside, I don’t plan on rockin’ any of the “Candida Lifestyle” collection while I’m here… I’ve heard the material they use can be kinda itchy.

“I’m sorry, I’m gonna skip the club & take it easy tonight – I am climbing a volcano tomorrow.”

Its been a little over a week since my last post, but it just so happens that we had quite an adventure yesterday to share with you!

Over dinner with some friends last week, we all agreed that we needed to take an excursion somewhere while the weather was giving us a short break from the mid-90s temps. After a few too many limoncellos, we got the great idea to hike to the summit of nearby Mt. Vesuvius, aka the world’s largest active volcano, the following Sunday. The night before, another friend of ours, Nando (a club promoter,) was urging us to go out and party somewhere, a place of which we would undoubtedly not leave from until 5 am (normal for Italians) and to forget about the volcano. So then Nando starts doing that Neapolitan “prayer hands” gesture at me, shaking them up and down at his chest & asks me, “Why you gonna go to the Vesuvio? Its tutto caldo! You gonna die.” “Really? Come on. Don’t you think thats a little bit of an exaggeration?” I replied. Maybe not.

If you have the fortune of coming to Naples, you absolutely must go to Vesuvius. In addition to being one of the world’s most awesome natural wonders, it is also provides one with somewhat of a thrill when you realize you are actually climbing up a terrestrial timebomb that could erupt anytime (its about 40 years overdue) and if it did, it would be impossible to flee from before certain death ensued. The entrance to the summit is 2/3 of the way up the volcano, and the hike is over the final 1/3. From there on, you are on a steep and constant grade with dust & loose gravel (they also offer free walking sticks – be sure to take one because it helps keep you from losing your footing on the way back.)

Of course, all adventures don’t always go on without a hitch. It was a hot & sweaty hike, and though I was hydrating, I started to suspect I was a little low on blood sugar & paused right as I arrived at a viewpoint about 200 ft from the summit. It was a good thing I did, because after about a minute, my blood pressure spiked, I got lightheaded & I realized I was about to have an anxiety panic attack on the top of a f***ing volcano. Really? Now? Unfriggin’believeable. Having had them before, I immediately sat down with my head below my knees to stop the rush of blood & dizziness, knowing that if I caught it early enough, it would pass. I waited it out for 5 mins to be sure, and as luck would have it, there was a vendor right nearby juicing fresh oranges. After a small cup of juice, it felt as if nothing had ever happened & I made my way to the summit. And it was so worth it. The crater was breathtakingly huge, and from certain points you could see smoke coming up from the base. The view of the land from above was incredible… you could see downtown Naples, Pozzuoli, the island of Ischia, Sorrento & the edge of the Amalfi coast.

After dozens of photos, we began our hike back down, which was considerably easier. Now that I know better, I don’t suggest doing this hike in late July – as Nando said, it was too hot & we were “gonna die.” Gladly, we didn’t (although it was a little harrowing there for a minute) and I actually look forward to doing it again in the cooler months, especially in the winter when snow forms at the top. And you can bet that when that happens, I’ll be sure they’ll be enough orange juice in my pack for anyone who needs it! : )

Check out more photos of our Vesuvius adventure in the flickr album below!

Mt. Vesuvius, a set on Flickr.

Okay, what’s with the picture, right? Let me explain.

I’ve been here for just over a month and since coming here, I have been trying to use my blog as a way to document any interesting little things I wanted to share with friends & family back home, or anyone I’ve met since we’ve arrived here… and have found it to be a great resource in illustrating some of the cultural differences between the States & Italy that you never hear about.

Well, here’s a big one. One thing you never hear about from people who have visited southern Italy is that in 99% of the public women’s restrooms, the toilets will be sans seats. Yup. That’s right. I can’t begin to guess what the deal is with this, but all I know is the thought of sitting on the cold porcelain of a public toilet of which I don’t know the cleaning schedule horrifies me. Aside from the obvious options one has between taking their health in their hands sitting on the damn thing or doing the more-hygenic-but-far-more-uncomfortable & risky squat/stand combo, I assume there has to be a better way. Until then, to anyone who ever plans to take a trip to southern Italy, my suggestion is this: do your best to use the restroom at home before going anywhere & in the event that nature calls, always be sure to carry tissue paper toilet seat covers with you wherever you go!

Aub: “Joe, look! Sonny Bono! Who knew?”

Joe: “What?? That can’t be him. Maybe its another Sonny Bono.”

Another Sonny Bono?

Surely this cannot just be coincidence. Who knew Cher’s former husband was such a trendy fashion icon? Apparently the Italians did.

The New Hotness (literally): Solfatara Volcano

Yesterday, we visited Solfatara in Pozzuoli. Solfatara (from the latin Sulpha Terra, meaning “sulfur earth”) is a shallow volcanic crater in the Phlegrean Fields region of Naples. Solfatara is dormant and all over the crater, you can see jets of sulfur steam erupting here & there. Because its a sulfuric gas, the vapors smell a little like rotten eggs – oh yes, I know you were wishing you were there for that! The last time Solfatara erupted was in 1198, driven by steam buildup beneath the crust of the crater, where groundwater came in contact with (cue Dr. Evil:) “liquid, hot mag-ma.” Currently, the crater floor consists of solid, compacted ash, bubbling thermal mud pools, and fumaroles (small openings & cracks in the ground that emits the sulfurous gas.)

Fun Fact: In 305, Solfatara was the location where the patron saint of Naples, Saint Januarius, and the patron of Pozzuoli, Saint Proculus, were beheaded during a year long persecution of Christians by the Emperor Diocletian.

Interestingly enough, the fumes have been used for medical purposes since Roman times & according to a sign at the site, it is also believed that breathing the vapors of Solfatara have an aphrodisiac effect… which I find debatable because I don’t find myself getting all hot and bothered when I’m at an ancient execution site, surrounded by air that smells like rotten eggs. Maybe that’s just me. In fact, I started to develop a slight headache towards the end of our visit… not sure if it was from the fumes, or the fact that we had spent way too much time outside in the near 100 degree heat. Either way, Solfatara didn’t disappoint and made for some great photos (like above).

Check out more photos of our Solfatara adventure below on flickr!

The Solfatara Volcano, a set on Flickr.

Solfatara volcano adventure!!

So I have a new fave right now – Zucchine Arrostite! From the moment I tasted the fresh mint in it, I could tell it was something special… so I’m gonna share it with you! Incredibly easy to make & best served cold, it would be a fantastic accompaniment to any summertime barbecue or picnic.

Zucchine Arrostite con Aglio e Menta (roasted zucchini w/ garlic & mint)

• 6 Zucchini (sliced in disks, long flat slices, or slices on a bias, my preference)
• Extra virgin olive oil
• 3-4 cloves garlic, minced (its gotta be fresh, not the jar stuff)
• about 10-12 fresh mint leaves, chopped
• White wine vinegar or white balsamic vinegar
• Sea salt
• Just a pinch of sugar

What to do next:

Roast zucchini in a pan or on the grill… you can do it just by itself, or with a touch of olive oil.

In a bowl, toss the grilled/roasted zucchini with the salt, sugar, mint & garlic. Using a spoon, do a heavy drizzle of vinegar, then olive oil to the zucchini mixture. Toss the whole thing together to make sure its all coated well & store in the fridge for 45 mins to an hour before eating. Can be kept covered in the fridge for up to 5 days.